topic posted Tue, April 3, 2012 - 10:50 AM by  Unsubscribed
Morning All ! ! ! .......... Spent the last 3 weekends cleaning out the coop . Rain this past weekend kept me from painting . Electric is back on as a previous owner disconnected it . There have not been any chickens in it in about 5 years but I believe in DEATH & DESTRUCTION when it comes to germs / virus's . I believe in bleach - screw vinegar .

So my question is : how much bleach to a gallon of water ? ? .......... will be using a 1 gallon pump sprayer . Coop is 12 feet deep and 14 feet long - has a sheet metal roof and is already screened in on 3 sides - back side is the garage . I believe in OVERKILL but will stay close to an actual bleach to water ratio . Have seen to many comments on various sites so looking for that AVERAGE . thanks in advance . crazy joe
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  • Unsu...


    Tue, April 3, 2012 - 12:12 PM
    That's easy:
    Store grade Bleach from the factory lacks a necessary component to be a sanitizer solution.
    The Hypochlorous acid needs to be adjusted to get it to be the stone cold killer you want for any decent sanitizing job.

    The titration is:
    in Five gallons of water
    One ounce of bleach
    One ounce of vinegar.

    I usually make it stronger. But that's the perfect chemical balance.

    This sets the hypochlorous acid level just right and interestingly the mixture is such that the chlorine isn't concentrated enough to denature the chromataphores in your cloths.

    It is also a no-rinse solution that you can use on brewery equipment and bottles etc.

    IT does not keep however as hypochlorous acid is not very stable.

  • Unsu...


    Tue, April 3, 2012 - 1:28 PM
    You want to know the REAL solution for chicken coop sanitation?

    Build the coop up on stilts, about three feet high. Make the floor out of wooden 1x2 slats on-edge, spaced about an inch and a half apart, and even cut the tops into 'sharpened' bevels. This way, predators can't come up through the floor, and chicken poop just falls to the ground.

    The door to the outside has a small landing perch where chickens step out before flying down, or land there on their way up. Any chicken can do this easily.

    For the ease of visualization, let's go with a 4x8 foot floorspace of slats, up on stilts. The chicken door is on one of the long sides. On the other long side you have a roosting bar that will hold a good dozen chickens. You can have two roosting bars at staggered levels and hold two dozen chickens if you want.

    On one short side, you have food and water hanging from chains. (I did not do this however. My chickens were free-range so I would throw scratch out for them and let them drink from the horse trough) You have an access hatch on that wall, so that you can fill them, clean them, and check up on them.

    On the other short side, you have four roosting boxes, or eight if you double-level them. They must appear FLUSH walled from the inside, so that the chickens don't roost, lay, or poop on the tops of them. From their point of view, it's just a flush wall with holes in it for roosting. The boxes protrude onto the outside and have a hinged, sloped roof where you can walk up and get your eggs without having to step foot into the chicken environment.

    the legs on the 'nesting box' side have wheels and cross-bracing for strength.

    The legs on the 'food and water' side are just regular legs. There are also sturdy handlebars on this end, like a wheelbarrow. This is so that you can move the chicken house periodically to keep from having one area totally saturated with chicken poop on the ground.

    I had a much smaller arrangement like this and my chickens were totally protected from predators in an area that was overflowing with raccoons, opossums, coyotes, foxes, and weasels. I often had these critters all over my yard. My chicken house did not have a closing door, and the chickens were never disturbed. If if makes you feel better you can have a closing door, but I would still keep it on stilts for two reasons: sanitation, and ease of access. It's REALLY a nice back-saver to have the food, water, and egg boxes at workbench-height, and situated in such a way that you can access them without having to walk into the chicken environment. Turns a chore into a simple pleasure.

    Many people call this a 'chicken tractor' but I just call it a smarter way to build a chicken coop. You can enclose the 'ground level' area for them to poke around on, but I like my chickens free-range. The eggs taste so much better, and they are 3x more nutritious, AND... I only had to feed my chickens in the winter. All summer they just ate bugs, which took care of my tick problem really well.

    In the wintertime, park the chickens out in the fallow garden soil and move it around occasionally. In the summer time, park them over the compost heap, or areas in the pasture that need a little encouragement. This is called integrating your farm. That way, things that used to be several individual problems that took YOUR time and YOUR energy to maintain and fight, you just arrange things so that each problem cancels out the last and all you have to do is play referee by moving the chicken house where it's needed and taking it from where it's not.
    • Unsu...


      Wed, April 4, 2012 - 7:18 AM
      My chickens used to follow me around because they knew that when I tended my place I'd be turning things over that had bugs underneath.. It was a movable feast

      I've put peer in bottle caps and leave it out and the critter's would get plastered.

      When they got to eating their own eggs I went to the Charleston Chew candy factory in Boston and got trunk fulls of defect candy bars for a nickel a pound and fed it to 'em.

      Never nailed a carcass to a wall to let 'em peck it clean but I knew plenty of farmers who did. It was how they got rid of their dead livestock when they cattle or horses died in the field. Others fed 'em to the pigs. Pigs and chickens will eat pretty much anything. Pigs will even eat hay.

    Fri, April 6, 2012 - 1:55 PM
    1/2 cup of chlorine bleach per gallon of water is the standard disinfecting ratio for commercial food production. It WILL kill any and all bacteria if applied directly and allowed to soak for a couple of minutes before rinsing.

    I know fuck all about using it in combination with vinegar. Seems like it wouldn't do much aside from changing the pH, but I don't really know.

    I do know that municipal water supplies have largely switched to chloroamines, not sure if this would be any better choice for your purposes, but I'll bet it'd be more expensive.

    I think a gallon of Clorox gets you where you want to go. Just use a mask (and gloves, etc) and don't breathe that shit. Chlorine gas is crazy toxic, highly reactive, and some of it's resultant compounds (like dioxin) are nerve-gas level dangerous.

    On the brighter side, it'll evaporate within a day, two at most. And then you're good to go.
    • Unsu...


      Fri, April 6, 2012 - 9:42 PM
      Yeah.... pour a gallon of chlorine and two gallons of ammonia into a polybucket and just leave it in the middle of the chicken house with all the hatches shut. Leave it like that for the rest of the day to fumigate, then open it up and give it two days to clear out.

      You want STERILE? You got it!

      Oh yeah. Don't breathe that crap, it will melt your lung tissue like styrofoam dropped in battery acid.
      • Unsu...


        Sat, April 7, 2012 - 1:34 PM
        When I was a kid we made bombs with muriatic acid and 12% chlorine. Two 1-quart mason jars with one chemical in each taped together and throw. The burn pattern in the vegetation spread out about 15 feet radially.

        I'd be careful about ammonia.

        You do get chlorine gas and it is a good sanitizer but there are other things.
        The chlorine has a valence shell of seven. This means it is dreadfully effective of pulling electrons from other molecules ( which is why it sanitizes) and it is entirely capable of pulling those electrons from your skin eyes lungs etc., and doing it rather fast and painfully.

        It'll also rot the wood you made the chicken house from - or more accurately it will strip the molecules of electrons which is what acids and caustics do leaving the wood porous and vulnerable to water and bio-organic penetration and it'll rot out much much sooner.

        One of the by products is nitrogen trichloride and it's highly volatile and explosive and toxic.

        And if the ammonia is in greater proportion to the chlorine you can get hydrazine and the reaction of forming it is exothermic and the heat can cause the subsequent explosion that kills you and roasts your chickens.
        • Unsu...


          Sat, April 7, 2012 - 4:01 PM

          But, whatever is left will be VERY VERY STERILE.

          I always wondered about a chlorine-gas booby trap that could be remotely activated.... Like, say, if your retreat is a mountain cabin, and you arrive to find it overtaken by dug-in squatters who will fight to keep you out, or attempt to kill you and take what supplies you have brought with you. You know it's fortified, that any attempt on assault is a futile effort and a risk you cannot afford, but it's also your only chance for survival, and it is your own home and property.

          So you go over to a certain bush behind a certain tree.... you lift a rock and dig into the dirt a little way and uncover a plastic lid.... inside the lid is a lever or a pull cable. I will not explain how it is connected to the house or what needs to be inside the house, but suffice it to say, you could clear that house out in a hurry with no risk to yourself.

          It is not technically a 'booby trap' in the sense that it is not automatically activated. You are still responsible to use your own judgment in this 'use of force' application. Whether it is justifiable as self-defense would depend on the situation and the laws of your locality.

          Of course, if you could get some tear-gas canisters in this system and install them behind wall vents... Less effective, but if you ever had to use them in a situation where legal accountability may follow, you may be better off.

            Sun, April 8, 2012 - 12:21 PM
            80%glacial acid would also work as a fumigation agent...but be careful.
            • Unsu...


              Sun, April 8, 2012 - 8:20 PM
              Surely there must be many irritants you can legally experiment with for forcible evacuation systems in buildings on your own property.

              Imagine some 'bad dudes' have your wife and daughters tied down in the house when you come home from a hunting trip. Can you risk the firefight to get in there and be the hero?

              How about just gas the whole damn place. Trust me, your wife and daughters will grow to forgive you for gassing them as well, when you sneak in the back door with a gas mask on, and a pistol in each hand against three or four blinded thugs who are choking for air.

              And, to bring it back on topic, I'm sure you can outfit your chicken house with a similar system in case you want to get hand-to-hand with the raccoons when they similarly break in and start ravaging your hens.